perjantai 19. tammikuuta 2007

Suursuon ostoskeskus (Maunula)

Suursuon ostoskeskus Maunulassa (Pakilantie 11) on minulle tuttu jo 1960-luvulta, sillä vietin paljon lapsuuteni kesiä Paloheinässä, ja uintimatkat fillarilla Kumpulan maauimalaan olivat vähän pelottavia, koska Maunulan puisissa vuokrakasarmeissa asunut jengi ei erityisemmin pitänyt paloheinäläisistä. Juuri ostarin kohdalla piti polkea vimmatusti, joten siellä ei juurikaan tullut käytyä. Opiskeluaikana asuin vielä joitain vuosia Paloheinässä, jolloin Suursuon ostari tuli tutummaksi. Siksi olikin hauska kolmenkymmenen vuoden jälkeen käydä tutustumassa vanhaan tuttuun ostariin. Jotain haikeaakin siinä toki oli, sillä purku-uhan alla elävä ostari elää selvästi hidasta kuolemaansa.

Keskustasta ostarille pääsee hyvin kolmella bussilla: 63 lähtee Elielinaukiolta, Lauttasaaresta tuleva 65A pysähtyy Rautatientorilla Ateneumin edessä ja 67 lähtee Rautatientorilta. Ostarin pysäkki on aivan sen edessä.
Suursuon ostoskeskus valmistui vuonna 1962. Arkkitehtina toimi Helsingin ostoskeskuksia enemmänkin - itse asiassa kaikkineen kahdeksan muutakin: Kannelmäki (1959), Konala (1963), Konalanvuori (1961), Kulosaari (1960), Laajasalo (1973), Myllypuro (1965), Puotila (1961) ja Puotinharju (1964) - suunnittelut Erkki Karvinen. Ostari on säilynyt melko hyvin alkuperäisenä, mutta esimerkiksi itäpuolen sisäänkäynti on vasta vuodelta 1995. Hieman kolhoa ja sisäänpäinkääntynyttä rakennusta piristää sisäänvedetty pääsisäänkäynti portaineen. Kaupunginmuseon ostoskeskusinventaariossa tämä ns. suorakaidemallia edustava ostari on arvotettu keskimmäiseen 2-luokkaan, ja sen arkkitehtuurin todetaan olevan "detaljeiltaan harkittua". Mainesanat eivät kuitenkaan ole auttaneet, sillä ostari on purku-uhan alla, vaikka sitä yritettiin saada jopa suojelukohteeksi. Tätä kirjoitettaessa vuokrasopimukset yrittäjien kanssa on kirjoitettu kahdeksi vuodeksi, mutta senkin jälkeen vie aikansa, ennen kuin rakennus todennäköisesti puretaan - mahdollisesti vuonna 2009. Osasyy purkuun on Maunula-seuran järjestämissä kyselyissäkin esiin tullut asukkaiden turvattomuuden tunne, jota ostarilla notkuva "epäsosiaalinen aines" - niin kuin tapana on sanoa - on aiheuttanut. Ostarin kohtalo on herättänyt runsaasti keskustelua eri mediossa, ja ostarin ravintolat omistava taho on perustanut Pro Maunula -yhdistyksen säilyttämään ostarin, mikä on nyttemmin epäonnistunut. Hanketta voi tutkailla vaikkapa Maunula-seuran kotisivuilta. Sävyt ovat olleet tiukkoja; tässä esimerkkinä nimim. Nainen Helsingin Sanomien keskustelusivuilta: "Liityn mielihyvin siihen suureen joukkoon, joka kannattaa maunulan ostarin purkamista. Epämiellyttävien kaljabaarien takia en ole viitsinyt käydä siellä kolmeen vuoteen mitään muitakaan palveluita hakemassa. Olin todella hämmästynyt lukiessani että joku nainen junailee niitä yököttäviä ravintoloita, mahtaa siinä pelkät euron kuvat kiillellä silmissä. On kumma että joka neliö tässä maassa annetaan juoppojen ja öykkäreitten ja muitten luusereitten haltuun. Ainoat menestyvät bisnekset näyttävät olevan juottolat, joihin työttömyyskorvaukset käydään huuhtomassa. Niitä ei Kiina-ilmiökään hetkauta."

Suursuon ostoskeskus on siis varsin sisäänpäinkääntynyt. Kaksi vapaana seisovan rakennuksen julkisivuista toimii lastauslaiturina, ja sisustaa leimaa vastaavasti kahden käytävän ympärille keskittyneet liikehuoneistot, joiden kautta ei luonnonvaloa käytäville juurikaan pääse. Nykytilassaan tämä ratkaisu onkin hivenen lohduton; esimerkiksi pohjoista käytävää leimaa tyhjilleen jäänyt Sparin tila ja käytävälle levittäytynyt halpatavaroita myyvä pieni "löytötavaratatalo". Sparin jälkeen ei ostarilla ole ollut lainkaan päivittäistavarakauppaa, mikä vahvistaa sen surullista olemusta.Purku-uhan alla olevaa ostaria ei luonnollisestikaan ole remontoitu innokkaasti, ja se onkin rapistunut monelta osin: esimerkiksi eteläisen lastauslaiturin sinänsä hauskaa rytmiä antavat puurimoitukset ovat läheltä katsoen melko surullisen näköisiä. Julkisivun valkoinen tiili ja otsalaudan valkoinen Minerit-levy ovat kuitenkin kohtuullisessa kunnossa. Rakennuksen purku ei liene kuitenkaan perusteltavissa sen huonolla kunnolla.


Suursuolla ei siis ole päivittäistavarakauppaa, niin kuin sentään useimmilla vanhoilla ostareilla on, mutta muuten se vastaa nykyostarien tarjontaa: pizzerioita on kaksi ja kaljakuppiloita yksi. Näistä huolimatta ostari tuntuu olevan varsin terveellinen ja esteettinen: Maunulan apteekin lisäksi tarjolla on huikealla määrittelyllä varustettu "parturi-kampaamo ja esteettinen hoitola" TakaTukka (jonka yhteydessä toimii Re Line -hoitolaitos), jalkahoitola Terveet jalat, Suursuon fysikaalinen hoitolaitos ja kampaamo Mauna-Loa (mainittakoon, että sanaleikin esikuva on maailman suurin tulivuori Havaijilla). Sokerina pohjalla ostarissa on jotain, jota ei muista Helsingin ostareista taatusti löydy: kuppari. Sarvisaunaa pitää kuppari Kaija Hankaniemi. Lisäksi ostarilla toimii R-kioski, vaatimaton lähinnä naistenvaatteita ja sekalaisia lahjatavaroita myyvä Kemikalio Judit, Pientavaratalo JV-Löytökeskus, jonka halpakrääsän seassa on jokunen antikvaarinen kirjakin. Ostarin ulkkoseinässä on jopa puhelin. Takapihan nurkalta pääsee kellariin, jossa on jo vuodesta 1968 toiminut Maunulan autokoulu.

Viihde- ja ravintopuolesta vastaa neljä paikkaa. Syödä voi Pizzeria Telsim Telessä tai Pizzeria Volkanissa. Taisin tehdä virheen, kun valitsin pääsisäänkäynnin vieressä sijaitsevan Volkanin. Power pizza, 6,50 maksanut pläjäys, jossa oli sekä kebab-lihaa että salamia ynnä muuta tilpehööriä, ei ollut hääppöinen, mutta toisaalta pohja oli rapea ja hyvä. Ravintolan oven avatessa tunsi jo liian pitkään käytetyn, huonon rasvan löyhähdyksen. Omistaja oli kuitenkin ystävällinen. Voi tietenkin olla, että kokemukseen vaikutti jo kolmas peräkkäinen ostarilounas. Taidankin yrittää seuraavaksi bongata sellaisen ostarin, jossa ei ole tarjolla kebabia ja pizzaa. Se lienee nykypäivänä kuitenkin utopiaa.


Ravintoloita ostarilla on siis kaksi. Diki-Diki toimii kuitenkin vain savuttomana tilausravintolana, joten se jäi minulle arvoitukseksi. Pakollisen oluen join Ravintola Bartsissa, joka oli varsin tyypillinen suomalainen keskikaljapaikka. Ravintola on myös levittäytynyt kolholla terassillaan pohjoispuolen lastauslaiturin viereen:
Tummansävyisen ja jopa tiiltä sisustuksessaan käyttäneen peruspubin looseissa istui siellä käydessäni alun toistakymmentä ihmistä: yksi iso ryhmä, kaksi innokasta biljardinpelaajaa ja muutama yksittäinen istuskelija iltapäivälehti ja tuoppi edessään. Pitkä tuoppi maksoi 3,20. Vieressä istuneen ryhmän keskustelu liikkui menneessä maailmassa, niin kuin varmaan useimpien suomalaisten juottoloiden päivittäinen peruspuhe. Muisteltiin kouluaikoja, ja kun yksi naisista kertoi olleensa "poikatyttö", alkoi yksi miehistä muistella Bartsin vanhaa tarjoilijaa, joka oli varsinainen poikatyttö ja pisteli miehiä turpiin mennen tullen. Tähän toinen mies filosofisesti: "Mikä on kauniimpaa kuin se, että nainen lyö miestä?" Sitten muisteltiin nuoruuden tupakanpolttoa ja päädyttiin Pilliklubiin ja sen pahviaskiin tehtyihin lukemattomiin rakennussuunnitelmiin. Lopulta päädyttiin uniin, ja yksi miehistä kertoi nähneensä unta, jossa hänellä oli aina taskuun kädet pannessaan taskut täynnä rahaa. Ja tulkinta tuli saman tien: "Olenkohan mä joku tyhjätasku, vai?"

Bartsissa on tarjolla karaokea, arkisin 09-14 ilmaista biljardia, bingoa ja onnenpyörää ja toisinaan elävää musiikkia. Ilmoistutaululta huomasin, että 18.2. järjestetään perinteiset ostarin ympäri -hiihtokilpailut. Niin että paikallishenkeä kapakassa tuntui olevan.


Suursuon ostarilla voi harrastaa myös julkista taidetta, vaikka kyseinen teos onkin ostaria nuorempi. Aivan ostarin parkkipaikan vieressä, pienellä puistotilkulla on lehmäveistoksistaan tunnetun Miina Äkkijyrkän (nyk. Liina Lång) Aamulla (1978), joka on kivetylle pienelle kummulle pystytetty, kolmesta pronssisesta vasikasta koostuva teos. Se tunnetaan myös nimellä Juottovasikat. Mestarillisena plastikkona Äkkijyrkän on onnistunut tehdä realistisestakin veistoksesta elävän ja aikaa kestävän teoksen. Vaikutelma on varsin viehättävä.

***

294 kommenttia:

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Mielenkiintoista. Tykkään ja odotan jatkoa.

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Minä odotan kans innolla jatkoa. Kuvat on niin mielettömän hienoja.

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Kävin sattumalta viime viikolla Suursuon ostarilla. Kiinnitin huomioni R-Kioskin teippauksiin ostarin sisäpuolella: teippaukset näyttivät jotenkin vanhanaikaisilta. Liikekyltti vahvisti asian, siinä seisoi "Rautakirja". Hienoa, että on jäänyt jotain tällaista :-)
-Karri

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Nasevaa raporttia nyky-Maunulan-ostarista. Ja entäs tuo kommentti Rautakirjan tunnuksista. Taidan katsoa tarkemmin seuraavalla kerralla. Olen kyllä huomannut raidoituksen sisäpuolella; pitää ottaa kuva muistoksi. Satun asumaan tässä melkein ostarin naapurissa....

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Edelliseen lisään vielä erityisesti: Älkää ottako niitä pizzoja, missä on suunnilleen kaikki lihapitoiset täytteet. Kokeilkaa joskus vaikkapa ilman mitään lihoja. Tämmöinen lihansyöjäkin yllättyi kerran kun seuralainen halusikin paprika, oliivi, sipuli -pizzan. Hyvää oli.

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